Unless you want to make your day a suffer-fest, you'll want to bring an extra pair. Mittens are a good choice here, with liners underneath for doing any rope work. Wool socks are king. You probably already knew that. But what thickness will you need? But depending on how your boots fit, a thinner sock may be in order. Remember, boots being too tight will inhibit circulation and make your feet feel that much colder.
Alex Frost is a content writer and editor at Outdoor Gear Exchange. He is an avid backpacker, trail runner, and gear enthusiast. When he's not on the trail, or getting soaked and scared during a late-season ice climb, he resides in Burlington, Vermont with his lovely wife, Dharma. To that end, a solid layering system is paramount. Baselayer Baselayers form the foundation of your entire layering system and are the key to staying warm and dry. When it gets wet, cotton allows the moisture to sit on your skin, in turn cooling you instead of keeping you warm.
Gear for ice climbing: Your instructors will provide all of the necessary climbing gear, which will include:. All linens — sheets, pillow, blankets, and towels are provided — you do not need to pack these! All food will be provided — breakfast, lunch, dinner, dessert, drinks, snacks, snacks and more snacks! Programs are live! Bring four extra if you're building gear anchors two per station and maybe bring less if you're climbing a slot canyon with bolts and short pitches.
Note: I don't include my mandatory 21cm screw and optional stubbies 10cm in this count. In regards to length selection, the holding power is the same for 13cm screws and 21cm screws provided the threads are in the same contact with the same ice. This is due to the length of the threads being equal. For this reason, I tend to include more 13cm screws for expediency of placement and a reduction in weight. Longer 16cm screws become valuable when the good ice is buried under a layer of crude or when building anchors.
And while expensive, the Petzl Laser Speed Light are worth every penny. In regards to draws, you'll need a mix of quickdraws and alpine draws and maybe a few more than the number of screws packed. The distribution of each should be dictated by the nature of the route. Straight forward routes will probably only required quickdraws but funky, featured or wandering routes will necessitate alpine draws and occasionally double length slings.
If you already have a rack of draws for sport or trad climbing I won't try to convince you that you have to purchase a set allocated specifically for ice climbing. However, if one were to ask, the perfect draw for ice climbing is lightweight, easy to manipulate with gloves, long enough to maintain a good rope line if clipped in a hole and wiregate to prevent freezing.
However most importantly to me is having a clean, notchless nose on the carabiner to prevent snagging on jacket hemlines. This biner selection applies to both draws and alpines. Often neglected but quickly and rightly so becoming more popular, certain routes demand appropriate avalanche gear, either on the approach, on route or both. If faced with complex terrain and an unfavorable bulletin, ensure that all parties have a beacon , shovel and probe and know how to use them.
Weight is certainly a concern and you will appreciate a lighter option. Many ice climbers like the Peips Micro but any beacon works, just make sure you're familiar with yours and well trained in companion rescue. Make sure they're stored within your bag. During short winter days we will regularly begin and end a day of ice climbing in the dark. Make sure you have a bright, reliable headlamp. I prefer a USB rechargeable model like the Petzl Reactik because I never have to doubt the remaining life in my batteries.
Cheaper option are the Petzl Tikka or Tikkina, which are powered by AAA batteries make sure you have a few spares packed. These offer great illumination for an excellent price. Most ice climbing locales are in remote, rugged landscapes demanding self sufficiency. It is imperative that your group have the means to address minor medical concerns and manage serious incidents. A well stocked first aid kit for ice climbing should have the means to stop bleeding, splint a broken bone, manage pain, package a victim to keep them warm and prepare for transport and communicate with outside help.
A the very least you should have a collection of gauze and bandages, steristrips, medical tape, a small blister kit, pain medication and a way to improvise a splint. Sam or C splints work well but with proper training you should be able to improvise with equipment you already have. A silicone impregnated nylon tarp give you a way to create shelter, make a rescue sled or wrap someone up to keep them warm.
A small space blanket helps also. One of the most crucial items to have is a fully charged cell phone. While the temptation always exists to use your phone as a camera, make sure you have enough battery life in case you need to call for help. And should you be outside cell reception, a personal locator beacon or satellite phone can be a literal life saver.
The best options, like the Garmin InReach offer two-way communication but the value of a Spot or Fastfind Ranger can not be overstated. A small repair kit specific to your gear is handy. Keep this streamlined and minimal. A spare toe bail, allen keys for your tools and crampons and a small roll of duct tape is probably enough for most problems you'll encounter. Most of these parts can be stowed inside your first aid kit.
Pass on the bra and underwear. A padded bra will not dry. Tuck your first shirt in tighter. Same with underwear—if you hike, it gets all sweaty. Keep your top versatile. Dawn begins with a half-zip top that goes higher on the neck—like the Alpine Onset Zip Top —that can be used with a neck gaiter. That way, she can open it up for the hike in. On top of that, she adds a Deviator Hoody. I wear more of a skullcap and buff under my helmet.
Don't forget about your legs. Dawn starts with a base layer—like the Alpine Onset pants—and then, if it's super cold doubles up on them or adds a fleece layer or tall socks, she says.
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